Thread weight for machine embroidery designs

This month, I was asked to be a “guest contributor” for the Monday Morning Chat in the Beginner Machine Embroidery group on Facebook. One topic I wrote about was on thread weight as it relates to machine embroidery. If you are on Facebook and looking for a supportive, informative, drama-free, embroidery group, I highly recommend […]

Nov 30, 2024 - 12:06

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Thread weight for machine embroidery designs

This month, I was asked to be a “guest contributor” for the Monday Morning Chat in the Beginner Machine Embroidery group on Facebook. One topic I wrote about was on thread weight as it relates to machine embroidery. If you are on Facebook and looking for a supportive, informative, drama-free, embroidery group, I highly recommend that you join this group. As in most private Facebook groups, you MUST answer a few questions in order to admitted to the group. They aren’t trick questions :-). They are there to keep the group spam free and on topic.

This week’s Monday Chat topic was on thread weight; specifically your TOP thread weight.

A typical embroidery design has been digitized for 40wt thread.

Your bobbin thread is typically 60wt or 90wt depending on the machine – so bobbin thread is THINNER than top embroidery thread. Your machine manual has all the information on what bobbin weight you should be running based on how your bobbin case was adjusted by the manufacturer/dealer. Your machine dealer is also an EXCELLENT source for information on what weight bobbin thread you should be running.

The higher the number the thinner the thread.

Unfortunately, the EXACT OPPOSITE is true for needle sizes – I doubt the thread people and the needle people had a conversation when they came up with their measuring system but that’s another story for another day

You will see I did a test sew of the same design in two different thread weights. If you compare and contrast, the thread weight makes a difference in clarity. The Fireman Block font (from Embrilliance Merrowly Patches collection) was digitized for 40wt thread at that size, so it is clear at the small size at 40wt. The script lettering was a 1/2″ font shrunk down to 3/8″ and actually stitches pretty clearly at 40wt, but if you run your hand over the stitching it’s pretty dense and slightly raised.

Same design stitched in different thread weight

Side-by-side comparison of 40 weight (wt) vs 80 wt thread

I have 80wt thread from Wonderfil in my thread stash. The Wonderfil name is called Decofil or DecoBob. Why 80wt? Because it is close to 90wt so I can use it in my bobbin as well when stitching free standing lace to get a more delicate look.

40 weight (wt) polyester thread from Wonderfil

80 weight (wt) polyester thread from Wonderfil

60wt is readily available from most thread makers and will provide a stitched result somewhere between what you see in my 40wt vs 80wt samples. Want to know what it would look like with your 60wt thread? Make up a comparison sample like mine and do a test sew!

Sized smaller in Embrilliance Essentials

The smaller design sample was only done with 80wt thread – I shrunk the already small design down by 25% and stitched it. I didn’t need to know what it would look like shrunken with 40wt thread – it wasn’t going to be any more clear in details than the original sized one.

Software view

I also included a screen shot of the computer representation of what the stitched would look like. Some of the software stitches look like blobs when viewed in software and they actually stitched rather cleanly. This is why you may hear people tell you that machine embroidery is NOT WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get). Your test sew is always the truth. Don’t rely on what you see in software – it most often isn’t exactly accurate.

These were all stitched with a SCHMETZ 75/11 Embroidery needle. I don’t feel the need to go to a smaller needle. Want to know if a smaller needle would make a difference? Make up a sample and do a test sew! I don’t use a smaller needle because what I’m doing “isn’t broken so why fix it”? AND if you do use a 65/9 needle you can NOT use your needle threader and why would I want to cause myself more work if as I already mentioned – I’m very happy with my 75/11 results

These are also stitched on quilters cotton with tear away stabilizer. No puckering because although I shrunk my designs, I started out with designs that had been digitized for small size to begin with.

Are these samples good enough for you to know what will happen for your project? He** no.

Sorry! My test sews show you what I can rely on with my fabric, my needle, my stabilizer choice and brand, my thread, my design and my hooping technique. My stitching gives a reference for me. I can show you what is possible and probable but until you actually create and stitch samples with YOUR materials, you won’t have the relevant truth for you.

Fireman Block mini font from Merrowly Patches
Script font is The Itch 2 Stitch Requited Script 1/2″ shrunk and shrunk again with Embrilliance Essentials
Music motif from Embrilliance Essentials library
Toile Floral is taken from an Embroidery Library design and shrunk 20% and then 25% with Embrilliance Essentials.

Text done in different thread weights

The picture with the lettering and butterflies. Ignore the butterflies as they are done with 40wt thread – this was a test sew for a family tree trying to choose a font. The ones in the 80wt thread are significantly clearer than the 40wt versions. They are all about 1/4″ tall since both design and butterfly had to fit on 3/4″ ribbon.

60wt Glide vs 40 weight (wt)t thread

The stitched hand written recipes are also a great visual comparison of 40wt vs 60wt thread. In this sample I used Glide 60wt on the left and 40wt on the right. Again, that is the only difference between the two test sews. Side note: I will be teaching a class at the Virtual Applique Getaway in November on how to digitize handwritten notes/recipes etc if you are interested. You can register for this event by using my affiliate link here. By the way – you can find links to all of my social stuff here

Soooooo, to wrap this all up, thread weight makes a difference in our embroidery designs. If you are going to stitch small lettering or designs with lots of delicate details, you may want to do a test sew and try out 60/80/100wt thread. 100wt thread is also available from Wonderfil as a polyester thread OR from Superior Threads as silk ($$$ compared to polyester) and will allow for an ever more crisp look.

Sewing thread has weight also and is usually 50wt or 60wt. I’ve used Mettler Silk Finish Cotton often since that is what I typically sew with and mine is 50wt (unless you purchase different weights) It has little lint because of the singe-ing process.