The Buccaneer Resort, A Sumptuous Stay On St. Croix

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​​​​Contributing writer Lina Zeldovich visits The Buccaneer resort and golf club and finds a delightful mix of Mediterranean charm, Southern hospitality and exquisite cuisine, served with a side of Caribbean history.  

“See that spot out in the sea where the waves break?” asks a beach attendant, pointing at the white crests out in the distance. “We suggest you don’t go past them,” he says as he puts my kayak into the water. I nod in agreement and paddle away on the azure currents of the Caribbean Sea until I get tired a bit. I turn my kayak and watch my hotel from the sea. 

The Buccaneer, a beachfront hotel and golf resort on St. Croix—the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands—is an intriguing mix of cultures, styles and tastes. With large windows, rounded archways, ornate columns and stone balustrades, it looks more Mediterranean than Caribbean. 

It welcomes you with that enveloping southern hospitality, immediately making you feel like family. Its menu choices are hearty and healthy. The Buccaneer isn’t your typical off-the-mill resort, that’s for sure. My curiosity is piqued—and during my stay, I learn some of its mysteries.

 Unique History of The Buccaneer Resort

Founded in 1653 as an estate, The Buccaneer’s main building was originally built by Charles Martel, a Knight of Malta, hence the Mediterranean style. Positioned atop a hill, it had a strategic importance—it offered a 360-degree view of the surrounding sea, making it easy to spot any approaching rogue ships. 

Over the years, the estate has been used to grow sugar, cotton and raise cattle, until the local Armstrong family opened The Buccaneer for business in 1947. They started with only 11 rooms and added more. Over 75 years later, Elizabeth Armstrong, the original owners’ granddaughter, operates the hotel. And the reason you feel like family is because you are.

 Delectable Dining Dilemmas

The island has changed over centuries, but the views from The Buccaneer’s main building haven’t, so today, guests can enjoy the breathtaking panoramas and the refreshing breeze when they dine at The Terrace. The hotel’s most iconic restaurant serves a mouthwatering breakfast that includes everything from omelets to fruit and French toast to grits. 

The Terrace’s dinner menu presents with delectable conundrums: pan-seared salmon with chili-lime glaze and pineapple salsa or catch of the day in a coconut curry sauce, or lamb lollipops—the succulent lamb chops, to name only a few. Desserts are equally tempting—how can anyone pass on a coconut crème brûlée? There’s no way to try everything in one sitting, so I will just have to keep coming again.

 That seemed like an easy decision until I discovered I could also have dinner at The Mermaid, the beachfront restaurant, dipping my toes in the sand. The dessert choices here aren’t much easier—is it the iconic key lime pie or a mango and passion fruit cheesecake? I may just have to keep coming here again, too. 

The Mermaid also serves lunch that includes the impossible beyond burger; made from a vegetable patty, it’s so juicy that it successfully rivals the real meat quarter pounder.

To make matters more complicated, there’s also Beauregard’s on the Beach, which seamlessly blends casual and chic into a one-of-a-kind culinary experience, known for superb sushi—one of the freshest and juiciest I ever had. Beauregard’s signature tacos, particularly the flank steak and crispy tofu ones, match them. 

A Rich History of Pirates and Presidents

Beauregard’s on the Beach serves its dishes with a side of history, so while waiting for my lunch, I read more about St. Croix’s tumultuous piracy days. When buccaneer Jean Martel, the son of Charles Martel, was fleeing from the authorities, he ran aground at the very Beauregard Bay, likely not too far out to sea from where I’m sitting. 

He escaped with some of his crew in a sloop and hid on the island. The legend says he carried a fair amount of gold, which was never found, so in The Buccaneer’s early days, the guests enjoyed searching for Martel’s gold as a seaside adventure. 

Legendary pirates aren’t the only luminaries that left their mark on The Buccaneer grounds. As the island’s iconic hotel, it welcomed numerous celebrities, from actors to athletes to public servants. Michal Jackson had favored the place. Amanda Ray, an Olympic swimmer with several medals, has stayed here. So did President Jimmy Carter back in the day. More recently, in 2023, President Joe Biden played golf at The Buccaneer’s 18-hole course with his grandson.

Still More to Explore—Waiting For Me To Return

The following day, I wake up to a steady rain that cancels my snorkeling adventure, so I look for something else to do. My shoulders hurt from kayaking and swimming, so signing up for a massage sounds like a great idea. I grab the last remaining afternoon spot at the spa.  

My masseuse Kate turns out to be incredible, so I get up feeling as if a mountain just fell off me. Meanwhile, the rain stops, so I decide to explore the property, which, after all, sits on 340 acres of greenery, grass and mangroves. 

I start at the windy path right outside my villa, which leads up the hill to the mangrove patches, overlooking the ocean, and continue along the golf course. The views are absolutely breathtaking, plus I spot some wildlife along the way.

I witness a pelican ln the beach trolling for crabs. A lively, energetic iguana crosses the path right before me, as if posing for pictures. Once the sun sets and golfers leave, a herd of deer trots onto the course to graze on the grass. When I return to my room, a cute bright green frog greets me, sitting on my door’s ledge—and then expertly climbs up the wall while I capture the feat on my phone. 

A few minutes later, I head down to The Mermaid for my last dinner and a show. As I pull my shrimp off the skewers, a trio of young women starts lighting up torchers, juggling them to the energetic disco music. I watch them in awe as they switch from one prop to another, captivating their audience with daring yet gracious moves. 

As soon as they finish, excited spectators line up to take photos with the dancers while the darkened ocean rustles in the background. I escape the crowds and take a long walk on the beach, where the sea kisses the sand. I’m so happy to be here—and a little sad to be leaving tomorrow. This was nothing short of a magical stay. I’m definitely coming back. I don’t know when yet, but hopefully soon.

Disclosure: The author was a guest of The Buccaneer, but any opinions expressed in this post are her own.

 IF YOU GO

Note: No passport required for U.S. citizens visiting the Virgin Islands.

About the author: 

A culture shock junkie, Lina Zeldovich shimmied with belly dancers in Turkey, cooked zebu in Madagascar, fished for piranhas in the Amazon, sipped a drink made from a venomous snake in Peru—and always lived to write the story. Her work has appeared in AAA Magazines, AARP, BBC, Smithsonian, Washington Post, Toronto Star, AFAR, Atlas Obscura, Saturday Evening Post, Garden & Gun, Sierra Club, and InsideHook, among other publications. She holds several journalism awards including NATJA’s gold, silver and bronze, and lives in New York so she can fly nonstop to almost anywhere. Follow her on @LinaZeldovich, @linazeldovich.bsky.social, Instagram @sciscribe, and see her portfolio at Contently. 

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