It’s So Nice to Take a Summer Vacay in Newport, Rhode Island – Day One

Earlier in the month, I shared my fun-filled weekend in Provincetown, Massachusetts. This post is part two of that summer vacay. It was equally engaging with a first-time visit to Newport, Rhode Island. I have so much to show and tell that I’m going to share Day One and save Day Two for a second blog post.

I had heard good things about Newport and it lived up to the hype. Thanks to the VIP card from Discover Newport, my BF E and I hit several major attractions during our mid-week stay. Late June was a perfect time to visit before seasonal crowds arrived.*

My BF E and I took a mid-week vacay to Newport, Rhode Island

Lodging on an historic street

Our Airbnb rental was in Howland House on historic Spring Street in Downtown Newport. From my walks around town, it felt like almost every building is a landmark. Spring Street is close proximity to the Wharf and Thames Street where there is an abundance of shops, restaurants, boating activities and other points of interest.

There are historic homes on Spring St in Downtown Newport

When not walkable, we utilized the free RIPTA Bellevue trolley, Route #67 (note there are other trolley tours that have a fee) which makes stops at popular tourist destinations. We checked the schedule and hopped on and off throughout the day. It was a great way to get around especially since parking is at a premium.

The Bellevue is a free trolley that makes stops at attractions all around Downtown Newport

Touring the oldest synagogue in the USA

Our first attraction was Touro Synagogue, the oldest standing synagogue in the USA. We arrived for a noon tour. Tours are free and don’t require reservations.

Touro Synagogue is America’s oldest synagogue and a National Historic Site

“Welcome to the Touro Synagogue,” said our guide Barbara. “Rhode Island was founded on religious freedom. The Synagogue opened for service on the first night of Hanukah in December 1763. Isaac Touro was 19 years old when he came from Holland to become the Synagogue’s spiritual leader.”

Barbara highlighted the synagogue’s history pointing out architectural features: “The eternal light, the candle sticks and the clock are all original,” she said. “The 12 columns represent the 12 tribes of Israel. The trapped door is a symbol of all that Jewish people had to go through to get here over the seas.”

Touro Synagogue is an “architectural treasure”

“Rhode Island was the last state to ratify the constitution,” Barbara said. “After they ratified, President George Washington visited Rhode Island.” While his visit was welcomed by congregants, it is the letter that the President wrote to Moses Seixas, Warden of the Jewish congregation, and the Jewish community in Newport, that had important significance then, and continues to have today.

President George Washington’s letter about religious freedom is read every year

According to the Touro website: “President George Washington assured readers that under governmental law, religion would not stand as a basis for discrimination.” Barbara noted that the letter is read every August as a reminder of religious freedom for all.

An afternoon at The Breakers and a stroll on Cliff Walk

Our afternoon was spent at The Breakers, the grandest mansion of Newport. Designed by premier American architect Richard Morris Hunt, The Breakers was the summer cottage of Cornelius II and Alice Vanderbilt. Having been to their mansion at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, North Carolina, I was eager to see the Vanderbilt’s summer home.

Ooh, ooh, ooh, it is also where HBO shot some scenes from the The Gilded Age. I just love anything about this opulent period of American history.

We got our tickets, downloaded the app, and participated in a self-guided tour.

The Breakers is the grandest mansion in Newport, RI

A lavishly appointed 70-room Italian Renaissance-style house

Our tour was easy to follow through the Great Hall with its grand staircase and ceiling painted like the sky; the Dining Room with massive chandeliers and wall sconces made of French Baccarat crystal; the Billard and Music Rooms for entertaining; The Library for reading; and the custom-decorated upper-level bedrooms for the owners and their guests and lower-level rooms for their servants

Can you imagine having Baccarat chandeliers in your dining room?

My favorite spot was the Upper Loggia, originally used as a semi-outdoor sitting room. It was a sunny day and the view looking out on the ocean was spectacular. Per the script: “You can see the Cliff Walk that runs along the edge of the property. Thirty feet below, the waves breaking against the cliffs give The Breakers its name.”

My favorite spot at The Breakers is the beautiful outdoor sitting room that looks out over Cliff Walk

Once outside, we made our way to the Cliff Walk. Our plan was to walk on the scenic 3.5 mile path to see Marble House, another one of Newport’s famous mansions. Unfortunately when we got to the rocky jetty portion of the Walk we hesitated and turned around. Not wanting to risk a fall we decided it was best to turn back.

“No Marble House,” I said to E. “I wish we could see all 10 mansions on the list. We’ll have to take another Newport vacay next year.”

Cliff Walk is a picturesque 3.5 mile path along the Atlantic Ocean

Dinner at Lawn at Castle Hill

I was lucky to get advance dinner reservations at Lawn restaurant at the Castle Hill Inn, one of Newport’s top luxury hotels. I had read about Lawn in The New York Times “36 Hours in Newport, Rhode Island” and decided to splurge. Dinner here is expensive. The author Lauren Matison wrote glowing reviews of this 40-acre peninsula estate located at the end of Ocean Drive. She said it is a “dreamy setting.” Others had described the grounds as the best place to watch a Newport sunset.

While outside dining was an option, we chose indoors with an equally nice water view. (Note: It was very windy outside on the terrace so we were glad to be inside.)

Castle Hill Inn is a grand place to watch a Newport sunset

For the most part I’d give our meal a thumbs up. We enjoyed our Jardiniere salad with garden veggies, pickled berries and green goddess dressing. The popular Kenyon’s Cornbread with honey butter and smoked sea salt was so good, so good, so good. Our Atlantic Swordfish entrees with orzo tabouleh, salsa verde and blistered cherry tomatoes — delish.

Swordfish at Lawn restaurant at Castle Hill Inn

Our Double Chocolate Cookie Sandwich with strawberry ice cream  — not so good. We still ate it — ha, ha, ha. It arrived in plastic packaging — I guess it is served at the snack bar too. We expected a more elaborate ice cream sandwich, or at least nicer presentation for such an high-end restaurant.

Our first day in Newport was splendid

Sunset at Castle Hill Inn

…with more to come on Day Two. Next time I’ll be featuring our scenic sail on one of Newport’s Classic Cruises’ Schooner Madeleine; lunch at The Black Pearl — one of Newport’s fav restaurants; and our ride on Ocean Drive along the southern most tip of what Discover Newport refers to as the  “majestic coastline.”

Meantime, hope you are enjoying many beautiful sunsets this summer.

Judi

*Disclosure of Material Connection: Discover Newport provided me with a VIP card media pass. Regardless, I only recommend products, places or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. 

 

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