Exploring West Iceland

West Iceland is a great place to visit if you want a mix of history, nature, and local culture. It’s easy to get to from Reykjavík and has everything from volcanoes and waterfalls to Viking history and old folktales.

You can visit museums like the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes to learn about Iceland’s early days or Snorrastofa in Reykholt, which is linked to one of Iceland’s most famous historical figures. If you’re into the outdoors, there are plenty of hikes, whale-watching tours, and caves to explore. There are also good restaurants and cafés along the way, especially for seafood lovers.

West Iceland is also known for its myths and legends, with stories of trolls, elves, and haunted places tied to many landmarks. Whether you’re here for the history, the landscapes, or just a road trip with good food and interesting stops, this guide covers the best places to visit and things to do.

The History of West Iceland

West Iceland has been at the heart of Iceland’s history for over a thousand years, from the first Viking settlers to the sagas that shaped the country’s identity. This region was home to some of Iceland’s most influential figures and major historical events that changed the nation’s course.

One of the most famous historical figures from West Iceland is Snorri Sturluson (1179–1241), a poet, historian, and chieftain who lived in Reykholt. He wrote The Prose Edda, one of the most important sources on Norse mythology, and Heimskringla, a history of the Norwegian kings. Snorri was deeply involved in Icelandic politics, and his assassination in 1241 was part of the conflicts that led to Iceland becoming ruled by Norway in 1262.

West Iceland is also closely tied to the Icelandic sagas, which tell the stories of Viking-age families, feuds, and battles. One of the most famous sagas, Egill’s Saga, follows the life of Egill Skallagrímsson, a warrior-poet whose family settled in Borgarfjörður. Many locations in the region are connected to the saga’s events, making it a fascinating area for those interested in Viking history.

Over the centuries, West Iceland has played an important role in the country’s development. During World War II, Hvalfjörður became a key naval base for Allied forces. The area was also central to Iceland’s fishing and trade industries, which shaped the country’s economy for generations.

Must Visit Museums in West Iceland

Reykholt and Snorrastofa

Located in the historic village of Reykholt, Snorrastofa is a cultural and research centre dedicated to Snorri Sturluson, one of Iceland’s most important medieval writers and historians. Snorri lived in Reykholt in the 13th century and wrote The Prose Edda, a key source of Norse mythology and Heimskringla, a history of the Norwegian kings. The museum offers exhibits on Snorri’s life, his influence on literature and politics, and the turbulent times in which he lived. Visitors can also see Snorralaug, a small hot spring pool believed to have been used by Snorri.

The Settlement Centre – Borgarnes

The Settlement Centre in Borgarnes is the best place to learn about Iceland’s early history and the Viking Age. The museum has two main exhibitions: one focused on the settlement of Iceland, telling the story of how the first Norsemen arrived, and the other dedicated to Egill’s Saga, one of the most famous Icelandic sagas. Through interactive displays, storytelling, and detailed reconstructions, visitors get a vivid picture of Viking life, early Icelandic society, and the legendary warrior-poet Egill Skallagrímsson, who lived in the area. The restaurant is also worth a visit.

The Icelandic Goat Centre

One of the more unusual museums in West Iceland, The Icelandic Goat Centre, focuses on Iceland’s rare and endangered goat breed. Located in Háafell, this small farm and museum is dedicated to preserving the Icelandic goat, which has been in the country since Viking times but nearly went extinct. Visitors can meet the goats, learn about their role in Icelandic farming history, and even see how goat milk and wool are used. It’s a great stop for animal lovers and those interested in Iceland’s agricultural heritage.

War and Peace Museum – Hvalfjörður

For those interested in more recent history, the War and Peace Museum in Hvalfjörður offers a look at Iceland’s role during World War II. During the war, Hvalfjörður was an important base for the British and American navies, protecting North Atlantic convoys from German submarines. The museum showcases wartime artefacts, photographs, and personal stories from the era, giving insight into how the war affected Iceland and its people. Nearby, you can also visit old wartime bunkers and remnants of the naval base.

Must-Visit Natural Wonders in West Iceland

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Snæfellsjökull National Park—This park is dominated by Snæfellsjökull, a glacier-capped volcano that inspired Journey to the Center of the Earth. It offers diverse landscapes, including lava fields, dramatic coastlines, and hidden caves. Popular spots include Djúpalónssandur black pebble beach and Saxhóll crater, both of which showcase the region’s volcanic past.

Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss – One of the most photographed mountains in Iceland, Kirkjufell is instantly recognisable with its distinctive cone shape. The nearby Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall adds to its picture-perfect appeal, making it a favourite stop for photographers and Game of Thrones fans.

Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge—A hidden canyon on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Rauðfeldsgjá is a narrow fissure in the cliffs. Visitors can walk inside to find a small waterfall and moss-covered walls. Entering the gorge feels like stepping into another world, though be prepared to get your feet wet.

Waterfalls & Hot Springs

Hraunfossar & Barnafoss Waterfalls – Hraunfossar is a stunning series of waterfalls that seem to emerge directly from a lava field, creating a unique and delicate cascade. A short walk away, Barnafoss is a much more powerful and turbulent waterfall with a tragic folklore story about two children who fell into its waters.

Glymur Waterfall – The second-highest waterfall in Iceland at 198 metres, Glymur is tucked away in a scenic canyon and requires a moderate hike to reach. The trail includes river crossings and impressive viewpoints, making it a rewarding adventure for hikers.

Deildartunguhver Hot Spring—The most powerful hot spring in Europe, Deildartunguhver produces boiling water at an astonishing rate. While too hot for bathing, its geothermal energy heats nearby towns. Visitors can relax in the Krauma geothermal baths, which use the spring’s naturally heated water.

Volcanic Landscapes & Geological Sites in West Iceland

Eldborg Crater – A perfectly formed volcanic crater rising 60 metres above the surrounding lava field. The hike up takes about 30–45 minutes and offers great panoramic views of the West Iceland countryside.

Berserkjahraun Lava Field – This eerie and vast lava field was created over 4,000 years ago and is tied to a Viking saga about two berserkers. The twisted lava formations, covered in moss and lichen, create an otherworldly landscape perfect for exploring.

Vatnshellir Lava Cave – Located within Snæfellsjökull National Park, this 8,000-year-old lava tube offers an underground adventure. Visitors descend into the cave to see fascinating lava formations and learn about the area’s volcanic history.

Gerðuberg Cliffs – A striking wall of perfectly shaped basalt columns, Gerðuberg is one of Iceland’s most impressive examples of columnar basalt formations. The cliffs stretch for hundreds of metres, forming a natural fortress-like structure.

Tours and Activities in West Iceland

Private Bespoke Snæfellnes Peninsula Tour

Join Your Friend in Reykjavík on a Private Bespoke Snæfellsnes Peninsula Tour in a luxury vehicle, tailored to your preferences.

Explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, often called Iceland in Miniature. This stunning region showcases lava fields, geothermal areas, volcanoes, glaciers, wildlife, and a rich history.

Highlights include:

• Ytri-Tunga – A white-sand beach famous for its seal colonies.
• Búðakirkja – The striking black church in a dramatic coastal setting.
• Arnarstapi & Hellnar – Picturesque fishing villages with stunning cliffs.
• Djúpalónssandur – A black pebble beach with fascinating history.
• Kirkjufell – Iceland’s most photographed mountain.

A major highlight is Snæfellsjökull Glacier, an ancient volcano made famous in Journey to the Center of the Earth. Though it hasn’t erupted in nearly 2,000 years, it remains an awe-inspiring sight.

This 12-hour private tour includes pickup and drop-off in the greater Reykjavík area, with stops at charming towns like Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður, and Stykkishólmur. Experience West Iceland at your own pace with a fully customised itinerary!

Hvalfjörður and Hvammsvík Hot Springs

Discover Iceland’s stunning landscapes and rich folklore on the Hvalfjörður & Hvammsvík Hot Springs Tour with a local expert from Your Friend in Reykjavík. The journey begins with a scenic 25-minute drive past Mount Esja to Þórufoss, a breathtaking waterfall featured in Game of Thrones.

From there, travel through the serene Hvalfjörður (Whale Fjord), where history and legends come to life. A stop at Steðji, home to an elf named Staupasteinn, adds a magical touch to the adventure.

The tour’s highlight is Hvammsvík Hot Springs, where you can soak in eight geothermal pools ranging from 10°C to 42°C, relax in steam baths, or take a refreshing dip in the ocean. Voted the world’s #1 experience by Time Out, it’s the ultimate Icelandic retreat.

After unwinding in the warm waters, enjoy a hearty lamb soup at Höfuðstöðin, served with freshly baked sourdough bread.

Refreshed and relaxed, head back to Reykjavík, ending the tour with unforgettable memories of Iceland’s natural beauty.

Silver Circle with Canyon Baths

Discover the heart of the Icelandic Sagas on this Silver Circle with Canyon Baths tour. Explore hidden waterfalls, the unique Húsafell Canyon Baths, and medieval heritage sites, all set against breathtaking natural landscapes.

Your adventure begins with a pickup in Reykjavík, traveling past Mount Esja and through the Hvalfjörður tunnel into Borgarfjörður. A quick stop in Borgarnes offers refreshments and stunning fjord views before heading inland.

Leaving the Ring Road, we venture into fertile farmland toward our first stop, Glanni Falls. Along the way, watch for glacial rivers flowing from Langjökull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier. This is just the beginning of an unforgettable Silver Circle experience!

Viking Sushi Tour West Iceland

Sail through Breiðafjörður’s countless islands on the Viking Sushi Tour, where stunning rock formations, historical sites, and Iceland’s strongest ocean currents create a breathtaking backdrop.

In summer, the bay is teeming with birdlife, including puffins, Arctic terns, kittiwakes, fulmars, and even white-tailed eagles—a paradise for birdwatchers and photographers.

A highlight of the tour is dredging the ocean floor, bringing up fresh scallops, sea urchins, crabs, and starfish—with the chance to taste some straight from the sea!

Best Places to Eat and Drink in West Iceland

Sjávarpakkhúsið
Location: Hafnargata 2, 340 Stykkishólmur
Description: Situated by the harbour, Sjávarpakkhúsið focuses on sustainable, locally sourced seafood. The menu changes based on daily catches, ensuring fresh and seasonal dishes. 

Fjöruhúsið
Location: Hellnar, Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Description: This charming café is popular among hikers for its fresh bread, pastries, and renowned fish soup. Nestled in a picturesque setting, it’s an ideal spot to relax and enjoy the view. ​

Englendingavík
Location: Skúlagata 17, Borgarnes
Description: Set in a historic house by the sea, Englendingavík serves a variety of seafood and traditional Icelandic meals, all while offering picturesque views of the surrounding area. 

Galito
Location: Stillholt 16-18, Akranes
Description: Family-style dining in an upmarket yet affordable setting with a diverse menu, including vegetarian and vegan options. ​

Bjargarsteinn Mathús
Location: Grundarfjörður
Description: Housed in over a century-old historic building, Bjargarsteinn offers breathtaking views and a menu emphasising local ingredients, particularly fresh seafood. 

Folktales and Legends of West Iceland

The Legend of Rauðhöfði

In ancient times, people in Suðurnes frequently sailed to Geirfuglasker to collect birds and eggs. These trips were perilous due to the skerries’ distance from shore and the rough seas.

One such journey turned tragic when a sudden storm forced the crew to leave early. All but one man made it back to the boat—he had wandered too far, assuming there was no hurry. He was the only son of a widow from Melaberg, a strong and capable man. The raging surf made rescue impossible, and the crew, believing him lost, sailed home.

Attempts to reach the skerries failed for the rest of the summer due to relentless storms. The man was given up for dead.

When men returned to Geirfuglasker a year later, they were astonished to find him alive. He gave only vague answers about his survival, claiming he had managed well enough. Taken back to land, he spoke little of his time on the skerries, and eventually, the mystery faded from conversation.

Later that summer, another strange event occurred during a church service at Hvalsnes. As the congregation exited, they found a cradle by the door, with a newborn wrapped in a luxurious, unfamiliar blanket. No one claimed it.

The priest asked if anyone knew the child’s identity or wished it to be baptised. No one answered. Suspicious, he pressed the Melaberg man for answers, but he denied all knowledge.

Then, a striking woman standing nearby intervened. She snatched the blanket, threw it into the church, and declared, “The church shall not pay the price.” Turning to the Melaberg man, she said angrily, “But you shall become the worst of sea-monsters.”

She seized the cradle and disappeared.

The priest kept the blanket, having it made into an altar cloth. Meanwhile, the Melaberg man fled from the church, running northward in apparent madness. He reached Hólmsberg, a sheer cliff by the sea, and stopped. Before the eyes of onlookers, his body swelled and transformed. The ground beneath him split, and a massive rock broke away as he plunged into the sea, becoming an enormous whale with a red head—the same colour as the cap he had been wearing. From then on, he was known as Rauðhöfði (Red-Head). The rock, Stakkur, still stands in the sea near Keflavík.

The Truth of His Survival

Some say his mother later learned the truth: he had spent the winter in Geirfuglasker, sheltered by elves. Treated well but unable to find peace, he was allowed to leave the following summer.

Before he left, an elf-woman, carrying his child, made him swear that he would see it baptised if she ever brought the baby to a church where he was present. If he failed, he would suffer dearly.

For reasons unknown, he broke his vow.

The Wrath of Rauðhöfði

Now a monstrous whale, Rauðhöfði terrorised Faxaflói Bay, sinking ships and drowning sailors. None were safe at sea between Reykjanes and Akranes. Eventually, he moved north, haunting the fjord now known as Hvalfjörður (Whale Fjord).

At that time, a blind but wise priest lived in Saurbær on the fjord’s shore. His two sons, skilled fishermen, were lost to Rauðhöfði. Grief-stricken but resolute, the priest took action.

He asked his daughter to lead him to the fjord one calm day. Standing in the shallows with his staff, he asked her to describe the water. She saw a dark shape approaching from the sea like a great mass of fish. As it neared, he had her lead him inland. The black shape followed them, moving up the fjord as if driven by an unseen force.

When they reached the river’s mouth, she saw the shape clearly—it was an enormous whale. The priest continued leading it upstream, guiding it into the steep gorge where the river tumbled down from the highlands. As Rauðhöfði forced his way up, the land trembled. The earth shook like an earthquake when he tried to climb the waterfall. The waterfall has since been called Glymur (Resonance), and the hills above it Skjálfandahæðir (Shaking Heights).

The priest drove him all the way into a deep mountain lake, now known as Hvalvatn (Whale Lake), near Hvalfell (Whale Mountain). Exhausted from the struggle, Rauðhöfði burst apart and was never seen again. Over the years, enormous whale bones have been found near the lake, said to be proof of the legend.

With his task complete, the priest returned home, and the people rejoiced—Rauðhöfði’s reign of terror was over.

Leirulækjar-Fúsi

In the early days of Fúsi and Sigurður Gíslason, the poet from Dalir, a powerful ghost haunted Hellisfitjar, residing in Surtshellir. This spectre was a terrible menace, attacking travellers, injuring some and killing others. It became impossible to cross the heath north from Kalmanstunga without risking an encounter with the creature.

Something had to be done, but few dared to confront such a formidable ghost. Eventually, people turned to Fúsi and Sigurður, knowing them to be skilled sorcerers and powerful poets. Though reluctant, they agreed on the condition that they would work together.

One clear summer morning, they set out from Kalmanstunga and reached Surtshellir early in the day. The ghost was nowhere in sight, but deep within the cave, they heard ominous rumblings. Neither of them was eager to descend.

Sigurður turned to Fúsi and said, “We must divide the task—one of us goes into the cave to deal with the ghost, while the other guards the entrance to prevent its escape. Choose your role.”

Fúsi chose to guard the entrance. Sigurður took a book from his coat, placed it at the cave’s mouth, walked counterclockwise around it three times, made the sign of the cross in reverse, and then descended into the darkness.

No one knows exactly what happened inside, but Sigurður later admitted he had never been in greater peril. However, he succeeded in banishing the ghost, and it was never seen again.

When he finally emerged at sunset, exhausted and shaken, he found Fúsi gone—and with him, the book. Fúsi had stolen it while Sigurður was inside and had fled. Furious at the betrayal, Sigurður searched for him but never recovered the book. From that day forward, the two became bitter enemies, engaging in many magical battles.

The Drowning of Sigurður

Years later, Sigurður was returning from a fishing trip near Snæfellsjökull. The journey home was smooth, with a good wind filling the sails. Suddenly, a great sea creature surfaced near the ship and charged at the stern. It snatched Sigurður and pulled him overboard but did not devour him. He swam desperately after the ship while his crew tried in vain to rescue him. Eventually, they saw him sink beneath the waves.

That same day, Leirulækjar-Fúsi was fishing off Mýrar with two companions. As they sat waiting for a catch, Fúsi was suddenly yanked overboard. He struggled to stay afloat, grabbing hold of the boat’s edge, but his crew could barely pull him in—something was dragging him down.

Realising what was happening, Fúsi freed one hand, reached into his coat, pulled out the stolen book, and hurled it into the sea, shouting, “Take it, cursed one—you’ve been after it long enough!”

Immediately, he was released, and his crew hauled him back aboard. Panting, he muttered, “The grip from below was far stronger than the one above. Now Siggi is dead, but the difference is—I floated, and he sank.”

Then he recited this verse:

“Sigurður drowned and lost to sea,
No grave will hold him now;
He died in rage, unwillingly,
Bound by darkest vow.”

The Ghostly Warnings

That night, Sigurður’s widow had a dream. A voice at her window recited:

“Go to the stone of Gýgur bold,
And seek there what was mine;
My lifeless bones lie there cold,
There you shall see the sign.”

The next night, she dreamed again. The same voice spoke:

“Go to the stone of Gýgur tall,
The chasm there is narrow;
A wave alone bore me to fall,
Now save me from the sorrow.”

She was certain it was Sigurður’s voice. On the third night, the voice returned, now reciting a solemn prayer about the eternal fate of souls.

The Cursed Meat Sack

On another occasion, Fúsi and other men from Mýrar travelled south to market at Effersey, long before Reykjavík had a trading post. Among his goods, Fúsi had a large sack of cured meat. However, he later discovered a man had stolen it from the east. Though Fúsi knew the thief, he let the matter rest and returned home.

As Christmas approached, word spread of a lone traveller wandering the region, always carrying a large meat sack on his back, endlessly searching for Leirulækur. One evening, he arrived at Fúsi’s house, knocked on the door, and asked to see him.

Fúsi met him and inquired about his journey. The man admitted he was from the east but had travelled from the south, burdened by the sack, which no one would buy from him, nor could he eat from it himself.

Attempting to remove it, he found it stuck to his body. He tried to enter the house, but an unseen force blocked him. When Fúsi asked why, the man had no answer—he had never encountered such resistance before, despite carrying the sack for months.

Fúsi smirked and told him, “It would be best if you told me the truth about that sack.”

At last, the man confessed that he had stolen it from the Mýrar men at the autumn market. Ever since, he had found no peace, compelled to wander until he reached Leirulækur.

Fúsi removed the sack and advised him never to steal again. It is said the man heeded this warning for the rest of his life.

Dealings with Dark Forces

Fúsi was known for his dealings with hidden beings—elves, spirits, and even the devil himself.

One morning, he set out alone, walking deep into the marshes. He arrived at a dense thicket where a dark, deep pit lay at its centre. There, he sat and waited the entire day.

As night fell, a head slowly rose from the pit—it was the devil, peering up at him.

Fúsi greeted him with a grin, saying, “There you are, my bright-eyed one.”

He later claimed it had been a great struggle to summon him, but well worth the effort, for the devil had shared much knowledge, given him powerful aid, and offered him many useful pieces of advice.

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